We do a similar cut, but bend the side and top of rake trim in 1.5 in.:thumbup:

 

ok. thats what i needed to know. thanks.

 

well all my panels are installed. i just flipped the evaporator cooler back into position and now realize that the ridge metal is going to sit to high for the cooler to clear it. the rear of the unit sits right at the peak. it cleared the original shingle roof with no problem, but the metal ridge cap sit higher. look like the unit has to go up about 4". this also means that the duct inside that connects it will have to be extended. this is all no big huge project but im wondering if i should go back to the home owner and ask for a adjustment to the contract for this extra work or just go ahead and do it and learn what to look for on the next job so as to prevent this form causing work for me that i dont get paid for.

 

got lucky, ridge metal clears the swamp cooler. the ridge sits lower than i expected. finally done. been screwing 5 hours a day for 5 days. thought id never stop screwing. so all and all ive got 30 hours into doing a 2300 square foot roof, straight gable, up and over. but now ive got a feeling for whats involved. can see where a hip and valley would be more, and winds would really be a problem. but not really that bad to do. took longer than if it were shingles. not as hard, physically, than doing shingles. so i would do another, but think id add a little to the price for the extra time it takes.

 

The labor times rise almost exponentially when dealing with hips and valleys. Charge accordingly!:thumbup:

 

im sure it goes by the foot. X feet of valley and hip equals = bucks. i know it will be a learning curve. is there a good figure to start put with per foot.