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Slate and Metal Roofer
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think it was Ed and I talking about this. I got a chance and took acouple of pics of how I do the last step flashing at a corner.
I never cut that down to the crease. I only cut it to the thichness of the material being used. Fold it, and it makes a nice ledge for the back pan.
I put some caulk there, and bed it in.
 

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Slate and Metal Roofer
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
A close-up showing the caulk filling in any gaps. I run my pans past the corner and fold that out lip down, which being the lowest point direct all wicking water where I want it.

Yeah, I know many like a nice tight corner, and like to depend on caulk or solder to do the job, but I can't resist using the old ways of doing things when you didn't have caulk to do the work for you.

The outer edge of the back pan is turned and folded down 'below' the chimney corner to help water cling to that lowest point. It prevents water from wicking to the corner. It would have to travel uphill to create a leak when done this way. Method works with all roof materials.

Anyway, I promised the pictures, so here they are.
 

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Nice detail, I see why your handle is "Tinner".

We keep our brake set up in the trailer to site make our flashing/ step ect. Visiting Florida one time I noticed a new house getting one piece to-wall flashing with a hem keeping the water from running onto the top of the last shingle course like us Yankees do with step flashing.

Since then we make all our step flashing in 10' sticks with a hem top side facing the wall before cutting them in 8" pieces. This keeps the water on the flashing exiting onto face of lower course not running off the flat catching a nail and finding a way inside.

Pretend your a raindrop.
 

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Roofing Expert
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HI Tom,i think you mean the two straps below the apron? if you do there nailed on to the last slate batten(timber) then double folded to hold the apron in place, normally i would of formed the lead apron do it had an 1" bend at the top and cut out the brick work so it slotted in and held it in with lead plugs, but on this particular chimney it wasnt possible.
I always put straps on the apron just to stop wind lift.
Cheers
Dave
 

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Dave most of my work is siding and most of the flashing i do is aluminum trim stock ,i also ''tab down ''my end wall and apron flashin but i just fold it over once.Do you have a preferece on how long you make the part that over laps the last course of shingles?again nice metal work Dave!
 

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Roofing Expert
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Dave most of my work is siding and most of the flashing i do is aluminum trim stock ,i also ''tab down ''my end wall and apron flashin but i just fold it over once.Do you have a preferece on how long you make the part that over laps the last course of shingles?again nice metal work Dave!
Hi Tom, theres no real preferance, the lead comes in 12"(600mm) rolls so it depends on where the chase line on the chimney comes for the upstand of the apron and whats every left is used to lap over the last slate course.
Ive seen zinc and copper used as flashing but over here lead is the prefered material.
 

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Slate and Metal Roofer
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Tom, I generally cut and fold the term flashing so the exposure is about the same as the shingles. 5" is standard on most roofs. Seldom, if ever over 6".
Anything less than 4" is wrong, IMHO.
 
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