We take some shims of something, 1/4in thick and put the drip against that. We have an in house gutter crew, and boy do they complain if we put the drip on too tight.
Questions about how roof, drip edge, and seamless gutters should be installed
I've spent countless hours trying to find multiple comments about how drip edge and gutter installation should work together to prevent damage to fascia.
New roof with type D drip edge installed last week,
Next day new gutters put on. Noticed gutter installer was putting major bends and waves into the drip edge. Raised drip edge and shingles up about over an inch along a six foot width. He also was putting all screws into the vertical edge of the drip edge flashing, bowing it in about every 16 to 25 inches.
I got pissy with him, he said it was required to get the gutters in the right place.
Basically found out the roofers had installed type D drip edge tight against the fascia, even though being instructed to leave an air space of 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
What do y'all do with drip edge with consideration for seamless gutters being installed afterwards?
New roof with type D drip edge installed last week,
Next day new gutters put on. Noticed gutter installer was putting major bends and waves into the drip edge. Raised drip edge and shingles up about over an inch along a six foot width. He also was putting all screws into the vertical edge of the drip edge flashing, bowing it in about every 16 to 25 inches.
I got pissy with him, he said it was required to get the gutters in the right place.
Basically found out the roofers had installed type D drip edge tight against the fascia, even though being instructed to leave an air space of 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
What do y'all do with drip edge with consideration for seamless gutters being installed afterwards?
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Totally agree with roofermann, as always. We also have our own gutter crew as well as break our own metal. We don’t shim but angle drip edge to roof pitch. I would never allow fasteners through face of drip edge.
Thanks for the comments. I agree that's the best way without going to a lot of extra work to angle fascia and use angle blocks to mount gutters.
Hope you see this next question:
Noticed, don't know how I missed it, the gutter person did not use any metal product to mechanically fasten the corners of the 5" gutters. Just used a color matching, probably adhesive caulk, to literally ' goop ' the seams and after it dried keep the seams together. No miter strips for inside/outside corners. Just lots of thick goopy adhesive caulk.
Today 4/5/2023 edited to say: Found one screw in top outside corner to help keep corners together. Don't like this method but at least a little mechanical support.
Hope you see this next question:
Noticed, don't know how I missed it, the gutter person did not use any metal product to mechanically fasten the corners of the 5" gutters. Just used a color matching, probably adhesive caulk, to literally ' goop ' the seams and after it dried keep the seams together. No miter strips for inside/outside corners. Just lots of thick goopy adhesive caulk.
Today 4/5/2023 edited to say: Found one screw in top outside corner to help keep corners together. Don't like this method but at least a little mechanical support.
Well, we use pre-made miter pieces for the corners and they get secured with rivets and the sealant
Right, the metal corner seams have to be mechanically held together to add strength and longevity.Well, we use pre-made miter pieces for the corners and they get secured with rivets and the sealant
Is there any time that just using a sealant/caulk for all the seams ( especially angled corner seams ) would be acceptable?
Only if the gutters are copper or galvanized and the "sealant" is solder.
I'll post pictures in a couple of days. It's a fairly old roofing company, about 20 years, the owner and his job foreman agreed to no nails in drip edge and to have it installed away from fascia. They now want to void total warranty if they attempt to replace two drip edge sections ( 4' and 6' ) that are severely bent up out of the way of the gutter mounting.
Roofing company provided the gutter contractor. Said he had done about 300 houses for them.
I think the gutter installer/contractor had to push the drip edge out of the way because the gutter corners weren't securely connected together with strip miter pieces. Just held next to each other by one screw in top outer edge corner. Any pressure from drip edge would tend to keep gutter corner section seam apart.
Roofing company provided the gutter contractor. Said he had done about 300 houses for them.
I think the gutter installer/contractor had to push the drip edge out of the way because the gutter corners weren't securely connected together with strip miter pieces. Just held next to each other by one screw in top outer edge corner. Any pressure from drip edge would tend to keep gutter corner section seam apart.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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