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Does this Forum have the updated V-B photo gallery?

I have not used that yet on CT.

Where are the instructions for uploading photos or galleries of multi-photos and can they be loaded in Batch, or just one at a time?

What is the size limit?

Ed
 

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Not sure if these pics will show up I use photobucket. anyways first one will be cedar job we finished last month did the part with skylights in June and did siding and rest of house in September. other house was one we finished mid September. Other one is my house and last one is old barn in Yale


and this one is my house Im working on when ever I get time just built porch all the way around with new windows and siding

last one is a 125 year old barn we put new roof and also resided upper part of gables
 

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Residential Roofer
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227 Posts
Valley and Rake meet, I had to dig out acouple inches of slicone, roof cement, a solid piece of aluinum coil that the roofers used to water tight the area, than roof it properly.


Trying to finish off the ridge cap on a trailor roofer in the rain afew weeks ago, ridge vent stops short because the home owner insisted he wanted to pot vents installed, so i offered one roll of ridge vent at no additional cost and he said ok. Thus 4' of ridge with out vent on either side.


Witches hat on a roof I did acouple weeks ago, have pics of the home, but not uploaded yet.
My camera pooped out and had to buy a new one.


Front and rear 10/12, sides all 12/12,
did this job start to finish 100% myself in 2006.
Had 3 guys working with me, Bobby and Matt both quit prior to the job being ready, Jim hurt his back on previous job.
53 squ/8 days.
 

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134 Posts
similarities maybe,but I have step,and counter flashings,my counter has a kick to deflect water from the stepflashing,yours almost looks like it`s one piece with a bottom gutter type design(like a thermovue skylight has),anything of that size would normally need a two piece design to facilitate expansion,and contraction of the material,I mark/measure all my flashing parts 1st,then go down to my 10'6" Tapco Pro-lll brake,never really saw a reason for a 4 ft. brake,but hey different strokes for different folks
 

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10 ft. Brake VS. a 4 ft. Brake

Most chimneys do not require a 10 ft brake. Because all of our 4 ft. brakes are exactly the same you can put 2 brakes end to end and brake 8 feet, 3 brakes together and brake 12 feet etc... in multiples of 4 feet, continuous. This chimney has a 14 foot face, all one piece. Actualy all of the flashing and counter flashing on this chimney was made using the Stealth Chimney Flashing Brake, even the step flashing. Can't do that with a 10 foot brake.
 

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Seems more like you are spamming for your product which is frowned upon here,and could lead to you being banned--As far as setting brakes together goes,simply not worth it
 

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Seems more like you are spamming for your product which is frowned upon here,and could lead to you being banned--As far as setting brakes together goes,simply not worth it
Can't stand the heat get out of the kitchen. I am just getting my point across just like you are. It would not mater if I was selling anything or not I would still make the same argument for this 4 ft. flashing brake. You do not need a 10 ft. brake to flash a chimney. My point is, our work looks every bit as nice as yours, only I did noy pay $3000.00 for my brakes.
 

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Dose'nt Get Any Better Than This!

We hav'nt found a single roofer in our neck of the woods that is willing or knows how to flash Sand Stone, Granite, or Cultured Stone the right way. They all try to put a square peg in a round hole. They try to install their flashing over the rough contour of the stone. We smooth out the rough contour to create a flat smooth surface to install our flashing & counter flashing. It is a lot of work, but as you will see it is well worth the effort.
 

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We hav'nt found a single roofer in our neck of the woods that is willing or knows how to flash Sand Stone, Granite, or Cultured Stone the right way. They all try to put a square peg in a round hole. They try to install their flashing over the rough contour of the stone. We smooth out the rough contour to create a flat smooth surface to install our flashing & counter flashing. It is a lot of work, but as you will see it is well worth the effort.
The last thing we do is seal the chimney with "A" Water Tight Chimney Sealer. This keeps water & Ice from getting into the mortar and stone and eliminates 'Spalling"
 

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