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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Question about flat tile roof repairs post Hurricane Ian damage since no roofers available anytime soon.
The roof took 110-120 mph winds for 3 hours, when I felt water drops coming from the ceiling drywall in a few places. Oh shit. So as this was happening, I went up into the attic to see what's going on and it appeared that it was wind driven rain coming in through the vents and dripping down in various places...but maybe not all of it....because...
A few days later, I went onto the roof to inspect it. There were a couple chunks of mortar blown out from under 2 of the ridge tiles but the tiles themselves were still mechanically secured. Few cracked tiles too. Also some flashing flipped up.
So, my questions are:
1) can I just repair the 2 loose ridge tiles by use foam, and then pointing with mortar?
2) Should a flat cracked tile be repaired or must it be replaced?
3) How do these vents look? Can I just seal them back down. Are the ohagan vents damaged?
Last 2 photos of construction so you can see what's underneath.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Any broken tiles should be replaced. Tiles can be glued or adhered and mortar can be repointed. I do my vent flashing differently but i would need to see what is underneath the base.
Appreciate your input, attached is a photo of base, or maybe I dont understand you mean by base. does that look like a 2 ply system synthetic underlayment over top of hot mop? The ridge tiles were nailed on, just the mortar came loose. I bought some of that Tile Bond foam from Dupont and was going to apply it underneath for extra strength and then remortar/point the edges. I dont think the field tiles were adhered in most places, but will find out tomorrow when I replace the broken ones, I was going to foam those. but maybe pointless if the rest were just laid on there unless I wanted to retro foam every one of them, is there a less expensive product than Dupont foam to adhere field tiles to underlayment, I saw RT600 works, but its sold out everywhere
 

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Im not sure if thats hot mop. In any order sounds like you are on the right track. Dupont sounds good to me you are deffiently going to want a quilty product and that is not cheap these days. You could use liquid nails if you had to but... Just keep in mind this is what will be sescuring your tile. I would imagine they are nailed or secured some how. Just take your time getting compromised tile. Slate rippers are your friend. Its pretty common to have to rework mortar joints. They take a beating up there on the roof. Hope that helps like i said sounds like you got this. Thats a mighty fine roof by the way. West Lake Roofing Saxony 900 Slate Antique Grey.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Im not sure if thats hot mop. In any order sounds like you are on the right track. Dupont sounds good to me you are deffiently going to want a quilty product and that is not cheap these days. You could use liquid nails if you had to but... Just keep in mind this is what will be sescuring your tile. I would imagine they are nailed or secured some how. Just take your time getting compromised tile. Slate rippers are your friend. Its pretty common to have to rework mortar joints. They take a beating up there on the roof. Hope that helps like i said sounds like you got this. Thats a mighty fine roof by the way. West Lake Roofing Saxony 900 Slate Antique Grey.

Very helpful, glad I didnt replace them yet because I had no clue which tile it was, and the boneyard had no clue but it clearly is that, so now I can go find it rather than have a mismatch job with the tiles I found around here. Bought a ripper too, thnx I will take my time. I can tell it's a synthetic underlayment underneath the tiles, tiles laid directly on it. After I rip the nails or screws out of the roof, then can I just silicone caulk holes or should I use some of that black gooey roofing cement. (I will use Dupont tile foam to adhere the replacement tiles). Sounds like mortar repairs are inevitable maintenance, can you just run a finger of mortar along the small hairline cracks along the ridge to stay ahead if it's not loose? thnx
 

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I would be prepared to install a new underlayment if it becomes damaged in the removal process just a small peice in the affected area if needed. It looks like some of that mortar is very loose remove what you can without damaging. If it just needs some in a hairline joint then do that also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
The gooseneck dryer vent started leaking today at the roof today. Long story short rather than repair, I am going to permanently cover it (going to use exterior wall instead for dryer vent instead - less problems).
So to repair the hole, I am thinking of using one of those Kwik Plug patches (OSB/steel flange) + use a synthetic underlayment patch extend 6" over the existing underlayment. Then full tile over it.
Do I need to use the same underlayment they used to install the roof or no?
It sounds like it would be easier to use that peal and stick underlayment for repairs then don't need to buy roofing cement?
Thnx
 
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