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I found out that I have insultation sandwiched between sheet rock and plywood in my vaulted roof. The house was built in 1977. There is no minimum 1" unrestricted airflow from bird block to attic. I have had a mold inspection in the attic and they recommended to contract and roofing company to fix the ventilation issue on the vaulted side of the roof. I contacted 3 roofing companies and each said to tear off the vaulted roof and install rafter baffles. I contracted out with one company and decided to get a new roof put on. The extra charge to tear off the old plywood and install the 22.5" Owens Corning rafter mate baffles between the 24" rafter channel and replace with new plywood was an extra $5200.00 on the vaulted said of the roof.Total cost around $18,500.

When they were done with the reroof I went to check on the baffle install in the attic I was furious that they only used 1/2 of the baffle, they split it in half and now have 11.25 of baffle in a 24"rafter channel on center . There is still insulation hitting the plywood on both sides of the baffle and there is not a 1" minimum airflow and some of the baffles are collapsed. The roofer told me it was to difficult to put the full 24" baflle between the rafter channel because of all the skip sheeting that was there.

Question 1. Should the roofer have taken off the skip sheeting and install the 22.5" rafter mate baffles to Owens Corning install specifications? I have 12 rafter channels and it's about 28 ft long from the bird blocks to the attic.

Question 2. The roof is CertainTeed AR Pro and I purchased the 5 star warrantee. Will CertainTeed AR Pro shingles last 20 years or more with this type of baffle install? All the talk in the (roofing industry) is to keep airflow going and keeping the shingles cool with baffles between the plywood and insulation in vaulted roofs/ceilings.

Thank you,
Genaro
 
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