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#1 |
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Slate and Metal Roofer
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 199
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I think it was Ed and I talking about this. I got a chance and took acouple of pics of how I do the last step flashing at a corner.
I never cut that down to the crease. I only cut it to the thichness of the material being used. Fold it, and it makes a nice ledge for the back pan. I put some caulk there, and bed it in. |
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#2 |
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Slate and Metal Roofer
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 199
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A close-up showing the caulk filling in any gaps. I run my pans past the corner and fold that out lip down, which being the lowest point direct all wicking water where I want it.
Yeah, I know many like a nice tight corner, and like to depend on caulk or solder to do the job, but I can't resist using the old ways of doing things when you didn't have caulk to do the work for you. The outer edge of the back pan is turned and folded down 'below' the chimney corner to help water cling to that lowest point. It prevents water from wicking to the corner. It would have to travel uphill to create a leak when done this way. Method works with all roof materials. Anyway, I promised the pictures, so here they are.
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SLate Repairs, Richmond, Va. Contractor Domain Name Sales Yes, I Sell them. DIY Roof Help Richmond, Va. Tinner666 Window Flashing Tutorial Last edited by tinner666; 06-15-2009 at 06:37 AM. |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 89
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Nice detail, I see why your handle is "Tinner".
We keep our brake set up in the trailer to site make our flashing/ step ect. Visiting Florida one time I noticed a new house getting one piece to-wall flashing with a hem keeping the water from running onto the top of the last shingle course like us Yankees do with step flashing. Since then we make all our step flashing in 10' sticks with a hem top side facing the wall before cutting them in 8" pieces. This keeps the water on the flashing exiting onto face of lower course not running off the flat catching a nail and finding a way inside. Pretend your a raindrop. |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: west milford n.j.
Posts: 109
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nice details thanks
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#5 |
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Roofing Expert
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 232
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Just thought i'd add my 2 pen'th
Cheers Dave |
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 89
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Ahh that too is pretty. Down south they have no idea what lead is. Alum or copper. Seriously, that is pretty.
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#7 |
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Slate and Metal Roofer
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 199
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English Roofer. I see we both run our side counter behind the back pan itself too.
I've seen it otherwise. |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: west milford n.j.
Posts: 109
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![]() ![]() you guys are unbelievable
Last edited by tomstruble; 04-05-2009 at 01:26 PM. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: west milford n.j.
Posts: 109
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Dave, those cleats you have on the lower apron? how do you fasten them? i see you double bend the top of them?
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#10 |
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Roofing Expert
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 232
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HI Tom,i think you mean the two straps below the apron? if you do there nailed on to the last slate batten(timber) then double folded to hold the apron in place, normally i would of formed the lead apron do it had an 1" bend at the top and cut out the brick work so it slotted in and held it in with lead plugs, but on this particular chimney it wasnt possible.
I always put straps on the apron just to stop wind lift. Cheers Dave |
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