Drip edge - Page 2 - Roofing Talk

tomstruble · 05-02-2009, 05:53 PM

thanks grumpy i appreciate the post

ive been working on a job its an estate in upstate n.y slate slate roof has leadcoated edging, wood roofs have copper,which i belive at the time were industry standards

Ed the Roofer · 05-02-2009, 08:11 PM

Every single Cedar Shingle job with multi-layers of asphalt pn top at least has a galvanized J-Channed Re-Roof Edge Metal on the eave cedar.

Ed

user182 · 05-02-2009, 08:47 PM

I’m not saying I would stop using it, but if it’s already on why tear it off?

On almost all of the home around here the builders installed drip edge on the bottom edge but not on the rakes. They installed a starter shingle on the rakes.

It has become standard around here to rip off the drip edge on the eave edge and install new drip edge with an 1.5 inch face.

I brought this up for 2 reasons. If the drip edge is already there why should I add in the cost to replace it?

OR if installing gutter apron is better than drip edge maybe I should switch to gutter apron.

Many of the gutter installation I see around here have the gutter on a big angle for drainage. I think that would require custom made gutter apron or it would not extend into the gutter in some places.

tomstruble · 05-03-2009, 12:18 AM

if the edge is an unpainted copper and is in good condition i would absolutly say keep it but if its painted steel or aluminum its probably a good time to replace it

Grumpy · 05-03-2009, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed the Roofer

Every single Cedar Shingle job with multi-layers of asphalt pn top at least has a galvanized J-Channed Re-Roof Edge Metal on the eave cedar.

Ed

I disagree Ed. Those were the 100 year old roofs I was discussing above. We do alot of these type jobs, at least a couple each year, in Evanston, Oak Park and older parts of chicago.

Grumpy · 05-03-2009, 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack The Roofer

I’m not saying I would stop using it, but if it’s already on why tear it off?

On almost all of the home around here the builders installed drip edge on the bottom edge but not on the rakes. They installed a starter shingle on the rakes.

It has become standard around here to rip off the drip edge on the eave edge and install new drip edge with an 1.5 inch face.

I brought this up for 2 reasons. If the drip edge is already there why should I add in the cost to replace it?

OR if installing gutter apron is better than drip edge maybe I should switch to gutter apron.

Many of the gutter installation I see around here have the gutter on a big angle for drainage. I think that would require custom made gutter apron or it would not extend into the gutter in some places.

Minimum slope for gutter is 1/4" per 10'. Typically we will pitch it greater than that however, and yes on long runs the end piece may need to be a custom flashing. We also don't like runs longer than 35' without a downspout.

MJW · 05-03-2009, 10:25 AM

I'll make some gutter apron if I have to, but a good steel wide face roof edge does work just as well. We use drip edge on everything and run starters on eaves and gables. The drip edge makes the edge stronger, but it also keeps the fascia on. lol

Never use Rollex aluminum roof edge. It is almost useless. It bends and bows very bad. I think I could make something much stronger with brake aluminum.

Do you guys still have alot of wood fascias or what?

Interloc · 05-03-2009, 04:35 PM

I'd say they are more cosmetic on gables unless it was a re-sheet.IMO

Ed the Roofer · 05-03-2009, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grumpy

Minimum slope for gutter is 1/4" per 10'. Typically we will pitch it greater than that however, and yes on long runs the end piece may need to be a custom flashing. We also don't like runs longer than 35' without a downspout.

You can go 40 feet for each 2" x 3" Downspout according to SMACNA, so I would presume 80 feet for each 3" x 4" Oversized Downspout.

Ed

Grumpy · 05-04-2009, 01:55 PM

Always err on the side of caution ed. I too read Smacna's book a few years back. 35' seems to work a little bit better and on the average home doesn't cause comsmetic worries. Even though an over sized downspout is twice the size, I wouldn't double the run. 80' is a long run for garbage and crap to build up in the gutter.

05-02-2009, 05:53 PM	#11
tomstruble Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: west milford n.j. Posts: 109	thanks grumpy i appreciate the post ive been working on a job its an estate in upstate n.y slate slate roof has leadcoated edging, wood roofs have copper,which i belive at the time were industry standards Last edited by tomstruble; 05-02-2009 at 06:07 PM.

05-02-2009, 08:11 PM	#12
Ed the Roofer Super Moderator Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 584	Every single Cedar Shingle job with multi-layers of asphalt pn top at least has a galvanized J-Channed Re-Roof Edge Metal on the eave cedar. Ed __________________ Just Wait A Minute, I Will Be Right Back With A Link For That. http://www.rightwayroofingcompany.com/ www.rightwayroofingcompany.com Roof Estimates, Roof Repairs, Roofers, Roof Leak Help, Elgin, Carpentersville, East Dundee, West Dundee, Sleepy Hollow, Algonquin, South Elgin, Huntley, Lake In The Hills, Illinois

05-04-2009, 01:55 PM	#20
Grumpy Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 724	Always err on the side of caution ed. I too read Smacna's book a few years back. 35' seems to work a little bit better and on the average home doesn't cause comsmetic worries. Even though an over sized downspout is twice the size, I wouldn't double the run. 80' is a long run for garbage and crap to build up in the gutter. __________________ -Grumpy Chicago Gutters Chicago Roofing

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05-02-2009, 08:47 PM	#13
user182 user182 Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 313	I’m not saying I would stop using it, but if it’s already on why tear it off? On almost all of the home around here the builders installed drip edge on the bottom edge but not on the rakes. They installed a starter shingle on the rakes. It has become standard around here to rip off the drip edge on the eave edge and install new drip edge with an 1.5 inch face. I brought this up for 2 reasons. If the drip edge is already there why should I add in the cost to replace it? OR if installing gutter apron is better than drip edge maybe I should switch to gutter apron. Many of the gutter installation I see around here have the gutter on a big angle for drainage. I think that would require custom made gutter apron or it would not extend into the gutter in some places.

05-03-2009, 12:18 AM	#14
tomstruble Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: west milford n.j. Posts: 109	if the edge is an unpainted copper and is in good condition i would absolutly say keep it but if its painted steel or aluminum its probably a good time to replace it

05-03-2009, 10:25 AM	#17
MJW Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 13	I'll make some gutter apron if I have to, but a good steel wide face roof edge does work just as well. We use drip edge on everything and run starters on eaves and gables. The drip edge makes the edge stronger, but it also keeps the fascia on. lol Never use Rollex aluminum roof edge. It is almost useless. It bends and bows very bad. I think I could make something much stronger with brake aluminum. Do you guys still have alot of wood fascias or what?

05-03-2009, 04:35 PM	#18
Interloc Pitched Roofer Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: BC Posts: 61	I'd say they are more cosmetic on gables unless it was a re-sheet.IMO