Drip edge

 
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Old 05-02-2009, 05:53 PM   #11
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Re: Drip edge


thanks grumpy i appreciate the post

ive been working on a job its an estate in upstate n.y slate slate roof has leadcoated edging, wood roofs have copper,which i belive at the time were industry standards


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Old 05-02-2009, 08:11 PM   #12
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Re: Drip edge


Every single Cedar Shingle job with multi-layers of asphalt pn top at least has a galvanized J-Channed Re-Roof Edge Metal on the eave cedar.

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Old 05-02-2009, 08:47 PM   #13
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Re: Drip edge


I’m not saying I would stop using it, but if it’s already on why tear it off?

On almost all of the home around here the builders installed drip edge on the bottom edge but not on the rakes. They installed a starter shingle on the rakes.

It has become standard around here to rip off the drip edge on the eave edge and install new drip edge with an 1.5 inch face.

I brought this up for 2 reasons. If the drip edge is already there why should I add in the cost to replace it?

OR if installing gutter apron is better than drip edge maybe I should switch to gutter apron.

Many of the gutter installation I see around here have the gutter on a big angle for drainage. I think that would require custom made gutter apron or it would not extend into the gutter in some places.
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Old 05-03-2009, 12:18 AM   #14
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Re: Drip edge


if the edge is an unpainted copper and is in good condition i would absolutly say keep it but if its painted steel or aluminum its probably a good time to replace it
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Old 05-03-2009, 09:17 AM   #15
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Re: Drip edge


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed the Roofer View Post
Every single Cedar Shingle job with multi-layers of asphalt pn top at least has a galvanized J-Channed Re-Roof Edge Metal on the eave cedar.

Ed
I disagree Ed. Those were the 100 year old roofs I was discussing above. We do alot of these type jobs, at least a couple each year, in Evanston, Oak Park and older parts of chicago.
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Old 05-03-2009, 09:19 AM   #16
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Re: Drip edge


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack The Roofer View Post
I’m not saying I would stop using it, but if it’s already on why tear it off?

On almost all of the home around here the builders installed drip edge on the bottom edge but not on the rakes. They installed a starter shingle on the rakes.

It has become standard around here to rip off the drip edge on the eave edge and install new drip edge with an 1.5 inch face.

I brought this up for 2 reasons. If the drip edge is already there why should I add in the cost to replace it?

OR if installing gutter apron is better than drip edge maybe I should switch to gutter apron.

Many of the gutter installation I see around here have the gutter on a big angle for drainage. I think that would require custom made gutter apron or it would not extend into the gutter in some places.
Minimum slope for gutter is 1/4" per 10'. Typically we will pitch it greater than that however, and yes on long runs the end piece may need to be a custom flashing. We also don't like runs longer than 35' without a downspout.
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Old 05-03-2009, 10:25 AM   #17
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Re: Drip edge


I'll make some gutter apron if I have to, but a good steel wide face roof edge does work just as well. We use drip edge on everything and run starters on eaves and gables. The drip edge makes the edge stronger, but it also keeps the fascia on. lol

Never use Rollex aluminum roof edge. It is almost useless. It bends and bows very bad. I think I could make something much stronger with brake aluminum.

Do you guys still have alot of wood fascias or what?
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Old 05-03-2009, 04:35 PM   #18
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Re: Drip edge


I'd say they are more cosmetic on gables unless it was a re-sheet.IMO
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Old 05-03-2009, 05:31 PM   #19
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Re: Drip edge


Quote:
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Minimum slope for gutter is 1/4" per 10'. Typically we will pitch it greater than that however, and yes on long runs the end piece may need to be a custom flashing. We also don't like runs longer than 35' without a downspout.
You can go 40 feet for each 2" x 3" Downspout according to SMACNA, so I would presume 80 feet for each 3" x 4" Oversized Downspout.

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Old 05-04-2009, 01:55 PM   #20
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Re: Drip edge


Always err on the side of caution ed. I too read Smacna's book a few years back. 35' seems to work a little bit better and on the average home doesn't cause comsmetic worries. Even though an over sized downspout is twice the size, I wouldn't double the run. 80' is a long run for garbage and crap to build up in the gutter.
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