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#11 |
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Senior Member
Trade: roofing and siding contractor
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: west milford n.j.
Posts: 109
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Re: Drip edge
thanks grumpy i appreciate the post
ive been working on a job its an estate in upstate n.y slate slate roof has leadcoated edging, wood roofs have copper,which i belive at the time were industry standards Last edited by tomstruble; 05-02-2009 at 06:07 PM. |
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#12 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 755
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Re: Drip edge
Every single Cedar Shingle job with multi-layers of asphalt pn top at least has a galvanized J-Channed Re-Roof Edge Metal on the eave cedar.
Ed
__________________
Just Wait A Minute, I Will Be Right Back With A Link For That. http://www.rightwayroofingcompany.com/ www.rightwayroofingcompany.com Roof Estimates, Roof Repairs, Roofers, Roof Leak Help, Elgin, Carpentersville, East Dundee, West Dundee, Sleepy Hollow, Algonquin, South Elgin, Huntley, Lake In The Hills, Illinois |
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#13 |
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user182
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 313
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Re: Drip edge
I’m not saying I would stop using it, but if it’s already on why tear it off?
On almost all of the home around here the builders installed drip edge on the bottom edge but not on the rakes. They installed a starter shingle on the rakes. It has become standard around here to rip off the drip edge on the eave edge and install new drip edge with an 1.5 inch face. I brought this up for 2 reasons. If the drip edge is already there why should I add in the cost to replace it? OR if installing gutter apron is better than drip edge maybe I should switch to gutter apron. Many of the gutter installation I see around here have the gutter on a big angle for drainage. I think that would require custom made gutter apron or it would not extend into the gutter in some places. |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Trade: roofing and siding contractor
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: west milford n.j.
Posts: 109
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Re: Drip edge
if the edge is an unpainted copper and is in good condition i would absolutly say keep it but if its painted steel or aluminum its probably a good time to replace it
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 1,562
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Re: Drip edge
I disagree Ed. Those were the 100 year old roofs I was discussing above. We do alot of these type jobs, at least a couple each year, in Evanston, Oak Park and older parts of chicago.
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#16 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 1,562
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Re: Drip edgeQuote:
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#17 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 28
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Re: Drip edge
I'll make some gutter apron if I have to, but a good steel wide face roof edge does work just as well. We use drip edge on everything and run starters on eaves and gables. The drip edge makes the edge stronger, but it also keeps the fascia on. lol
Never use Rollex aluminum roof edge. It is almost useless. It bends and bows very bad. I think I could make something much stronger with brake aluminum. Do you guys still have alot of wood fascias or what? |
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#18 |
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Pitched Roofer
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: BC
Posts: 438
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Re: Drip edge
I'd say they are more cosmetic on gables unless it was a re-sheet.IMO
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#19 | |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 755
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Re: Drip edgeQuote:
Ed
__________________
Just Wait A Minute, I Will Be Right Back With A Link For That. http://www.rightwayroofingcompany.com/ www.rightwayroofingcompany.com Roof Estimates, Roof Repairs, Roofers, Roof Leak Help, Elgin, Carpentersville, East Dundee, West Dundee, Sleepy Hollow, Algonquin, South Elgin, Huntley, Lake In The Hills, Illinois |
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 1,562
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Re: Drip edge
Always err on the side of caution ed. I too read Smacna's book a few years back. 35' seems to work a little bit better and on the average home doesn't cause comsmetic worries. Even though an over sized downspout is twice the size, I wouldn't double the run. 80' is a long run for garbage and crap to build up in the gutter.
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