Insulation with roofing jobs

user182

A side by side picture is what I need. Here is a picture of a plastic tube that my supplier gave me. It’s filled with insulation and has 1 inch increments s and r values on the label.

The job I quoted the other day already had blown in insulation but it had been pulled away from recessed lights and packed down from workers crawling through the attic. Also most of the insulation around the access hatch was gone. It must have fallen out when the workers installed the recessed lights because the hatch wasn’t boxed out. All of this was done before the current owner lived there.

When I told him the hatch needed to be boxed out he said he didn’t know what I meant. That’s why you have to have pictures of everything. The existing conditions and how you are going to do it. Also some of the baffles were filled with blown in insulation.

You’ve got to take pictures or the average homeowner won’t know what you are talking about.

Attached Images

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user182

I have a brochure here from OC that says the Dept. of Energy recommends R-49 for Chicago

Grumpy

I toyed with the idea of using empoty paint cans or buckets and poking holes in the bottom for air flow, until I saw the installation video and the guy is basically putting card board boxes, upside down, with no bottoms (4 sides no top or bottom) around the canned lights. This is a much more effecient and economical way of doing it IMO...

Plus seriously would you hire a guy who was going to use used old coffee cans for materials? Not the kind of customer we are going after, plus I think you need more air space around the light than a coffee can will provide.


The proposal is simple, yet informative and to the point. It clearly states what we are going to do, and what we are not going to do as in the case of removing any stored items. Plus it informs them that if they are using their attic for storage, they will lose that space or else we are going to have to build a platform. Can anyone say Upsell?

Building the platform is pretty easy, take some 2x12" in a box laid across the existing joists, Fill with insulation, cover with OSB, Done. Then proceed to insulate the rest of the attic. This box would be built as close to the hatch as possible so they don't need to travel throughout the attic space.

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-Grumpy
Chicago Gutters Chicago Roofing

Grumpy

Yeah I saw that sample, but it's not quite what I mean since tht's all new insulation. Put some new next to the old and you really the difference. Think of it like this, you are doing half the gutters on a house, beause the old gutters are maybe 5 years old and perhaps half fell off in a storm or what ever. The customer never really thought of the old gutters as being old, until the brand spaking new aluminum is visualized with the old. All of a sudden their house is mis-matched and they end up replacing the rest of the gutter anyways. I think we've all been there before.

That's kind of why I wanted to do a side by side of new vs old, showing 4 or 5" of insulation next to 16" of insulation. Big difference not only in the size, but in the dirtyness of the old rockwool that was sooo common around here awhile ago.

__________________
-Grumpy
Chicago Gutters Chicago Roofing

Grumpy

I went to the DEPT of energy website and it said 48, who should we believe? When was the brochure printed? I'll look it up again if I have time and prove one of us wrong.

__________________
-Grumpy
Chicago Gutters Chicago Roofing

user182

Here is my warranty and limitations, your critiques are welcome. You would insert your company name where the word "Contractor" appears.

1 Year Warranty: Contractor warrants that the insulation will be installed according to manufacturers’ specifications.

Warranty Limitations
Damage caused by manufacturing defects is excluded. Warranties are null and void if payment is not received in full and timely. This guarantee is void if any alterations or repairs are made on this project by anyone other than a representative of Contractor. We will not be responsible for any cracks or nail pops that may result in the ceilings or walls while work is being done in the attic. Contractor is not responsible for damages caused by mold in attic and/or walls. Owner will allow access to driveways for delivery trucks or additional fees will apply. Contractor and its subcontractors, material suppliers, dumpster and trailer suppliers are not responsible for damage to driveways.

Grumpy

What does your warranty even mean? TO me that's some marketing so the customer says "Oh look a warranty!" I mean in this case I can guarantee the job won't leak for 1000 years. Hell perfect opportunity to offer a life time guarantee. But the question is what exactly am I guaranteeing?

I couldn't think of anything to warrant which is why I have no warranty. What exactly am I supposed to be warrantying?

All of your exclusions are already a part of my standard terms of service and labor guarantee, which I have posted in various places on many occasions. Except the driveway thing. Anyone who works for me is instructed to stay fof the drive way. If the suppler damages the driveway I expect them to fix it or lose a customer. I guess that's a topic for another discussion.

__________________
-Grumpy
Chicago Gutters Chicago Roofing

user182

The warranty means that I am going to properly install the insulation.

For example, the insulation should be roughly the same depth throughout the attic. The insulation should not block off soffit vents or get blown into the baffles.

I think my main concern is being held liable for a condition in the attic now or in the future.

Some attics may have stains around roofing nails caused by condensation. Now does that means a mold removal project should happen. Most people would think it’s insignificant. But if they sell the home and some pinhead inspector makes an issue out of it problems could develop.

That’s just one example. No mater how good of a job you do with the ventilation you can’t control the humidity in a home. The homeowner could turn up the humidifier and cause condensation in the attic.

user182

I found a copy of that chart at this website of a contractor in CA.
http://www.aussieroofing.com/atticat.htm

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user182

The blank spaces for depth and r-value would not showe up when I copied & pasted.

The existing insulation has an approximate depth of inches, and an approximate R-Value of
1. Install Owens Corning Expanding Blown-In Fiberglass Insulation, approx. depth inches, approx. R-Value
2. The existing insulation and the new insulation combined will have approx. depth of inches, approx. R-Value
3. Ventilation: while installing new insulation we will ensure that the existing insulation, as well as new insulation, does not obstruct proper air flow.
4. We will install vent channels to allow an air flow between the insulation and roof deck;
5. We will install soffit vents to provide intake ventilation;
6. If needed we will install a barrier to hold insulation away from recessed lights.
7. If existing bathroom fans are not properly venting a duct pipe and roof vent shall be provided;
8. A barrier shall be constructed around the attic access opening to hold back insulation and the attic access opening shall be covered by an insulated panel.
9. Care will be taken not to damage the interior of the home and any job related debris will be cleaned up and removed.
10. Other:

TOTAL INVESTMENT $